Reviving Hanfu Fashion: China's Cultural Identity and the Modern Hanfu Movement

Introduction:

Hanfu, a term recently invented to describe the clothing of Han people in ancient China before the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), has gained increasing popularity in recent years (Yuxin, 2019). As a reflection of traditional culture and historical reclamation, the resurgence of Hanfu has coincided with a growing interest in conventional customs. Previously regarded as odd and disconnected from daily life, Chinese folk art has now become an essential aspect of modern-day beliefs for many Chinese citizens, especially traditionalist skeptics (Yuxin, 2019). Hanfu serves as a bridge for those initially hesitant to embrace Chinese culture, while the younger generation uses it to fashion an alternative form of cultural identity (Bannerman, 2020). For many, Hanfu represents cultural affirmation and national pride.

Opposing View:

A CNN article posits that Hanfu's resurgence is a tool for China's rise to prominence, spreading political nationalism rather than reviving ancient fashion trends or revitalizing traditional Chinese culture (Lei, 2019). The article suggests that the term "Huafu" is more appropriate for describing typical Chinese ethnic apparel, criticizing the conflation of Hanfu with clothing from all Chinese ethnic minorities. Carrico (2017) argues that some people see Hanfu as a critique of the Manchu regime (Bannerman, 2020) and that it fosters a sense of victimhood, which can harm ethnic unity (Carrico, 2017). Under Xi Jinping's government, Hanfu has been increasingly associated with monolingualism, traditional virtues, and nationalism (Yeung & Lee, 2021). Carrico (2017) claims that the popularization of Hanfu further entrenches China's Han Chinese racial superiority and cultural supremacy at the expense of ethnic minorities (Yeung & Lee, 2021), making it a political statement to advance a nationalistic cause.

Statement of Validity:

Hanfu encompasses a wide variety of styles, with hundreds of variations depending on factors such as location, time, and social class (Carrico, 2017). Yao (n.d.) argues against using the term "Hanfu," noting that China's complex society includes many ethnicities, with fusion and assimilation being commonplace among various groups (Yeung & Lee, 2021). Fashion is connected to global, social, and political trends, and while the state may attempt to control the phenomenon of culture, it cannot entirely dictate it (Wu, 2015, p. 24). Both traditional and modern aspects of culture coexist as entrepreneurs and citizens find ways to adhere to a defined paradigm (Wu, 2015, p. 141). The relationship between tradition and the state remains fluid, with power dynamics constantly negotiated between them.

Statement of Position:

Carrico (2017) and Ling (n.d.) argue that emphasizing Han culture and clothing may lead to increased social separation in China, with minority groups at risk of cultural assimilation and a consequent reduction in China's ethnic diversity (Lei, 2019). In contemporary China, the dilution of ethnicity and culture has become a pressing concern. The rise of "hyper-folk" aligns with Hobs and Rangers' "invention of tradition," an attempt to merge past and mythology to support an evolving cultural identity or promote shared values (1983) (Wu, 2015, p. 21).

Chinese tradition has served as a key argument for nationalist reconstructions and modernization efforts over the years, as it remains linked to unadulterated origins (Felski 1995: 37–38 cited in Wu, 2015, p. 32). National unity and the promotion of mass culture have been key objectives for the Chinese government, particularly in the face of rapid globalization and modernization. However, while it is crucial to preserve and promote Chinese cultural heritage, it is equally important to foster an environment of inclusion, celebrating the nation's rich ethnic diversity.

Conclusion: The resurgence of Hanfu is a multifaceted phenomenon with both cultural and political implications. While it has undeniably played a role in the revival of traditional Chinese culture and fostered a sense of national pride, it has also been co-opted by some as a tool for promoting nationalism and Han Chinese cultural superiority. As China continues to evolve and adapt to the pressures of globalization, it must strike a delicate balance between preserving its cultural heritage and ensuring that all ethnic groups within the country feel valued and included in the nation's collective identity. In the end, the Hanfu movement has the potential to both enrich and challenge China's understanding of its history, culture, and identity.